Monday 21 February 2011

A little taste of Heaven

So Haiti is a country full of extremes.  Be it the weather, the gap between rich and poor or the very difficult question of religion.  Our time here on the second leg of our journey in Les Cayes has been very mixed. Again we are faced with extremes from taunts in the street of "oi blanc, blanc blanc" and a few un complimentary hand gestures to those who are open with us about their lives and appreciate and want the work we are doing to continue in Haiti.  On Saturday we spent the day looking for other hotels and guest houses to stay in as the Hosana Guet house, although comfortable makes us feel confined, like living in a prison.  Only allowed out with someone to be our guide we are forced to sit in this great mansion which has massive walls with glass covering the top and a huge iron gate to prevent people getting in...or out?  Each day we have to say grace at the dinner table and listen to our hosts talking about the devils work and how you cannot be christian unless you have been re born.  It stirs a mixture of emotions in all of us.  The divide between rich and poor in this country is extreme to say the least and this is amplified when we ask "what about those living in tents. What will happen to them?"  We are met with the response "the government will have a plan" or the shrug of shoulders, a distinct lack of care perhaps?

So yesterday we had a day off and so made our way to Il a Vache a tiny island off the coast of Les Cayes.  We arrived at the docks after a bumpy truck ride to be greeted by Pasteur Malingo (our guide who runs the orphanage) and our translators who we work with. Rubbish is everywhere in Haiti and it lines the edge of every pavement, house and free space.  The sea was a wash with plastic bottles, paper and green slime.  Our expectations for the day were low and we wondered if Il a Vache was as beautiful as every body said.  After a 30 minute boat ride across the sea we were greeted by this islands beauty.  White sand, palm trees, small wooden shacks painted the colours of the rainbow and small fishing boats.  Heaven it seemed was here in Il a Vache.  As we rode into Port Morgan famous for Captain Morgn's Rum i got excited about the visit to the beach.  My expectations were blown away as we rounded the corner of the bay and were greeted with water that was clear an empty beach and the sun gleaming down.  If you can remember the bounty advert 'a taste of paradise' that is what it was like.  The rest of our party had never visited Il a Vache due to the cost of the boat and i thought what a shame they are missing out on something so beautiful right on their doorstep. 

We spent the whole day in Il a Vache sunbathing, chatting about politics, education, the state of the health service both in Britain and in Haiti.  We drank rum and beer together and soaked up the rays.  It restored my belief in the Hatian people and as we returned to Les Cayes singing ridiculous and funny songs we were reminded of the poverty, tension and rubbish that greeted us on our return.  When we got back to our guest house we were thoroughly sun burnt, sleepy and all very silent.  The family who runs the guest house were still out at church (16 hours spent at church) and as i settled down for the night feeeling contented, the smell of the ocean on my clothes, my skin feeling exfoliated from the sand and my hair smelling salty i thought what an amazing opportunity i am getting. 

Haiti truly could be a beautiful country.

Tamsin Fitzgerald

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